Following the success of the sandbag, smoke marker and stowage tutorials, I thought I'd try my hand at sharing a few tips on battlefield scenery. This should not be confused with terrain, as these are small pieces which can represent either objectives or eye catching scenic items.
I rarely travel to a game without taking a box of finished scenics, many of which can be seen below. IMHO, very often the difference between a good looking wargame and a fantastic looking one, are the details!
As this thread grows, I will be covering ammo dumps, fuel dumps, general cargo / supplies, vehicle wrecks, barricades, bunkers, fences, tank traps and other defences. Many of these are of course available from GW, but to be fair, the choice is limited, and I hope to show you how to get the most from what you get.
Ammo Dumps / DropsFirstly we will look at ammo dumps / drops. I take my inspiration here from our recent objective marker competition. I apologise to non imperial players but most of this section is more suited to Imperial forces because of the ready source of bits! Besides, if you choose to play xeno scum forces, well, ya take's yer chance....! :P
The Battlefield Accessories sprues are invaluable for many of these pieces. and are reasonably cheap. There isn't a single unusable piece on the sprues. For Ammo dumps and drops, the metal pallet, ammo boxes and canister are all readily usable as they come, but it is best to combine these with left over bits from infantry, heavy weapon and tank accessory sprues.
On the tank accessory sprue, there are many items which if not used as vehicle stowage, can certainly be used here! In particular, there are two ammo boxes, the largest of which is my personal favourite and has been used extensively in the following few models. Heavy weapons sprues are very versatile. It is inevitable that "most" people will have left over parts and weapons from these which can be used with very little modification.
I made these two pieces up in one go, taking less than an hour.

To me, it is important that to give the impression of an ammo store or drop, you should endeavour to make it look to have purpose and substance. It is often too easy just to scatter what few bits of weaponry / ammo boxes etc onto a base.
To be fair though, such supply drops do not give the impression of being able to sustain a squad, never mind an army!
Be prepared to use your preciously gathered items together, choosing to make fewer but more substantial pieces.
If you are short of stuff, but want to give the impression of more, then cheat!
Look at the pallet in the following picture. I only had a handful of these cool looking ammo boxes (taken from the vehicle accessory sprue). To give the impression of more, I have stacked all the boxes at one side and then put offcuts of foam board around it. This model can now be partially covered by a tarpaulin made from tissue paper and watered down pva (an idea I shamelessly stole from Jase's parachute objective marker).

Try to make your scenic items unique. Look in the top crate in the left hand piece above.
I have cut the stocks from a handful of left over las rifles and glued them onto a piece of card to give the impression of a full crate of folding stock guns. Also note the mortar has it's legs "folded" in.

This one only uses the long crates and a handful of missiles. I've put in "supports" to compensate for the difference in length. Again, by using three crates, the piece looks more "purposeful".
Next up, I will demonstrate Jase's tarp method which has been used here on this pip model.

We're going to add a tarp to the pallet with the bits of foam card. First of all, cut a piece of 3 ply tissue to twice the size of the required tarp, then fold it to the correct size.

Centre it with a dab of pva on the model.

Start to add watered down pva. It does not need to be too runny, but it does need to be wet enough to start soaking into the tissue. Use an old paint brush to dab it on, pushing the tissue into the desired position. Ensure that you leave enough detail showing through where you want it. In this case, we clearly want to show off the ammo boxes!

Make sure you leave a few "folds" as these make the painting look more interesting. Make sure that you get wet pva to every surface area of the tissue. Any dry tissue at this point will break up during painting! Once you have covered the model to achieve the desired effect, leave it to dry. (24 hours is fine)
You can add a further coat of pva at this point if desired, otherwise, you are ready to paint!
Fuel Drops / DumpsFuel drops should be treated in the same manner. The addition of a few details such as the funnel and the drum hand pump (Italieri) help to give it purpose. Try to use a minimum of three barrels.

We will cover larger fuel dumps later....
FencesSome of you will have seen my fenced stockade in my Industrial Terrain thread.

Nice piece of terrain that it is, it doesn't offer the flexibility that individual fence panels can on an ever shifting wargames table.
Using the same method I used to create the the above, you can quickly and cheaply knock up simple panels.

Using roughly cut 5" pieces of foamboard, glue in three 2½" pieces of plastic angle. It helps to score the foamboard so you can push the posts into it. PVA and sand the base. An alternative to plastic angle can be straight pieces of left over plastic sprue.
To this, stick a piece of car body mesh (very cheap and available from any car parts shop) sized to stretch over the frame.
It helps to add a little more sand to the base to anchor the fence mesh.

I also find that by drilling the tops of the posts, I can thread a piece of fuse wire through to help keep the mesh tied tight.

You end up with good looking fence pieces.

Should you want to model corners, construct them like this.

BTW, the cargo stack shown in the stockade picture is available from Ainsty Castings (Old Crow) and looks damn fine.
Sandbag BarricadesUsing the method I described in the Sandbag tutorial, it is easily possible to create sandbag emplacements and barricades. This one is based on a simple 5" off-cut of foamboard, roughly cut and sanded.

By adding further detail into the wall, you can save on the number of sandbags ( and therefore expensive greenstuff or milliput! ) and make them more interesting. Please note that if you are making this number of sandbags, it is cheaper to use Milliput or Air Drying Clay than GS.

You can even incorporate other defencive barricade items into them.
Tank TrapsThere are of course some particularly nice resin traps available from Forgeworld but they are fairly expensive, especially if you want a large number of them.

We will now explore how to make our own by creating a master from which we will make a latex mould and be able to cast as many as we want!
tbc......to be continued.....